The Banffshire Chronicles on Botriphnie

In a Deed of concession of Grants to certain Prebends belonging to the Cathedral of Moray, 1226, mention is made of the Teind-Sheaves of the Parish of Buttruthin, a form of the name which possibly shows it to be from the Celtic words, Bo-traigh-an, i.e..., the river holm or strath of the cow. The " river holm or strath " is quite descriptive of the site of the Church of Botriphnie. The Vicarage of Botrochyn is taxed at 3 merks, and in 1275 the Kirks of Butruthie and Aberlour are rated together at 4 merks.

In 1574, it was served along with Aberlour and another two Churches by one Minister, who had Kirk-lands and £166 of stipend. Andro Reidfurde, reader at Pettrithney, had a salary of £13 Scots. Botriphnie. is estimated in extent at 15 Square miles, and has a Population of about 730,-not large, certainly, for the bounds. The ancient name of the Parish was Fumack Kirk, so called from St Fumack, the Patron Saint.

A little below the Established Manse is St Fumack's Well. An annual Fair is held in February, on a Green on the opposite side of the Railway line from the Well According to a "Description of the Parish," circa 1726, the " Wooden Image is washed yearly, with much formality, by an old woman (who keeps it) at his Fair on the third of May, in his own well there"

The Image, having been swept away by a flood of the Isia, was carried down to the mouth of the Deveron, where it was stranded, and afterwards burned, as a monument of superstition, in presence of the Parish Minister.

The old custom of a game at Foot-Ball is still practised at Fumack Fair. Formerly the Gudewives, having " brewed their brewster," used to shake their malt-bags over the Still for luck. They believed that if the Whisky did not operate so as to make the men fight at the Fair and " draw bluid," it would not be a good season following.

There are two or three large Ash trees growing on this spot, among the first that were planted in this part of the country: and how they came about is as follows.

There was an Inn near the site of the Bridge, and the Landlord (Petrie Milne), was an " Original. " A man was on his way from Aberdeen to Balvenie with a load of Plants slung over the horse's back in the " Currach , style, as the custom then was. He refused to sell a plant or two to the Landlord, who, however, when his Customer was in having a Dram, took the opportunity of taking a few, which he carefully planted, after the man was gone, one in name of each of his family.

On the opposite side of the Bridge is a curious Tree, the species of which is unknown.

Botriphnie has, during the last half century, made remarkable progress in the reclaiming of land, in the making of roads, and in all the improvements that follow in the train of agricultural enterprise.

At the time referred to, the only Road in the Parish worth notice was an old Right of Way leading from Keith to the Kirkton of Mortlach ; and such was even this Road, that five firlots of grain were declared too great a load for a horse and cart.

So primitive were the ideas of the Botriphnie people in those days, that "old ones" still living, relate having seen two men make a cart, wheels and an axle in a day; and this would have been considered an excellent cart. The ploughs were mere unshapely beams of wood, generally drawn by six or eight oxen, and generally made by the ploughman or Farmer in the forenicht, after outdoor labours of the day were over.

It is also worthy of note that there were at that time only 4 hats and 5 umbrellas in all the Parish,-and that there was neither Justice of the Peace, Public House, Doctor, Midwife, Tailor, nor Shoemaker, nor any person belonging to the Episcopal or Roman Catholic Church, - a fact which was believed to be without parallel in any Parish of the same extent in the North of Scotland.

At Wester Chalder {" Wasty Chather "} to the west of the Towie Toll Bar, and near to the Towie Railway Station, the people of the locality point out the residence of one of the name of Mirrieston, whose great grandfather was fired at by Petrie Roy's robbers on their way to Keith.

In the same District, but down by the Isia, there is pointed out the site of a Meal-Mill, which stood there till 1820, of which it is told that Edintore being  'bunsucken' to Oldmills, Elgin, the people had to go all that length with their mulctures, until it happened that (" a small farmer"} a party lost his way in a snow-storm in prosecuting the dreary roadless journey. In consequence of which circumstance, there was effected a compromise by which Edintore became 'bunsucken' to this Mill of Auchyndachie, where the people of Edintore still pay mulcture's to the Earl of Fife.

At the back of the Hill of Tenrood, the first Hill on the east after passing Towie Toll Bar, is a memorable spot where a whole shovelful of flint arrow-beads was found by some workmen in casting Up a dyke about 1837. Near the same locality there is The Elves' Hillock. 

Tenrood of old was famous for Fox hunts , and stirring are the tales of the splendid chase, in which the whole countryside was privileged to join in the fall of the year.

A little beyond the Farm of Upper Towie, is the Burn of Towie, a tributary of the Isla, rising in the Hill of Altmore and, a short distance up this Stream, a fine Lime Quarry has been opened, where the Mineral is said to be inexhaustible. The Quarry is leased by Miss Gordon, Tullochallum. Like many other parts of Scotland in days gone by, Botriphnie was divided into small Estates or "Lairdships".

Westerton Estate comprehended the Farms of Westerton, Lochend, Lynemore, Midthird, Blacknuck and Belniescuge.

Braehead Estate extended from Backmuir to the burn of Elinoch.

Arbrack Estate extended from the Burn of Westerton to the Tennentown Stripe.

Towiemore Estate extended from the Burn of Towie to the March between the lands of the Earl of Fife and Drummuir. The residence of the Laird of Drummuir (who was then the largest, as his successor is now, almost the only proprietor in the Parish), was at the Farm Mains of Drummuir. Almost the only part of the Parish not included in the Estate of Drummuir, is the Glen of Bodinfinnoch (which belongs to Auchluncart) and the Glen of Bellyhack which belongs to Lord Fife. The ancient residence is still partly standing, and is known as The Old Castle of Drummuir.

The Castle of Drummuir was erected about 1848, by the late Rear-Admiral Archibald Duff from designs furnished by the late Mackenzie of Elgin. The style is of the Tudor Gothic; and its vast proportions and compact form and castellated, embrasured Roof with Banner Tower rising high above give it the appearance of being possessed of massive strength and carry the mind to the period when " above the gloomy Portal Arch, timing his footsteps to the march, the Warder kept his guard"

The grand Entrance is towards the North, and is protected by a spacious port-cochere which is lighted by a magnificent plate glass window set in open freestone work. This Porch is also surmounted by an embrasured parapet. Above the centre of the Porch, looking to the East and West, there are two Armorial Shields, with the Motto - "Kind Heart Be true and ye Shall Never Rue"

Passing through the vestibule, which though small is most elegant, the roof being arched and highly ornamented, the Grand Entrance Hall is entered, which is unrivalled in the North. It is the whole height of the building, and is lighted by a Cupola more than 60 feet from the floor.

Entering from the Hall on the East are the Library, looking toward the North; the Breakfast Parlour toward the East which is hung with rich specimens of Tapestry. The Grand Drawing Room looking towards the East and South and occupying the South East angle of the castle. Its walls are panelled and the panels are hung with French paper; the ornamental work of the Cornice and the Ceiling is very elaborate and is executed in the French Style. The Small Drawing Room is on a line with the vestibule and the Entrance Hall, and looks towards the South. The Dining Room communicating with it, and occupying the South-west corner of the edifice. The Ceiling of this superb Room is panelled and painted in oak. The Chimney-pieces are of Peterhead granite, the colour of which harmonises well 'with the Ceiling and Walls.

On the West side of the Entrance Hall is a Corridor leading to the Business Room, on the right of the Vestibule, and also to the Grand Staircase, which is lighted by a Stained glass Window, looking towards the West. The Ceiling is nearly in the same style as that of the Dining Room, each of the Panels containing an emblazoned Shield. The Castle was erected at a cost of some £10,000.

LOCH PARK

Loch Park is about a mile in length, and has a mean breadth of 100 yards-along the border of which runs the Railway. The former Proprietor disannulled and dried it, but it is once more famous for Trout, Wild Ducks, and Swans. A Boat is kept for fishing by Major Gordon-Duff of Drummuir. Isla Well runs into this Loch, from whence the Isla has its source. This fine Sheet of water, occupies the base of a mountain-gorge, the sides of which are clothed in wood, rising to a great height. This is the highest part of the Dufftown line of Railway, and is a most picturesque Highland Loch.

The session Records are not older than 1728.- The Register of Baptisms is kept middling regularly since 1690. The former church was built in 1677. The date on the Bell is 1739. There are four Silver Communion Cups, having no date. "Botriphny " is engraved on their ends. The Tokens have the same Word halved, with a neat antique bordure.

The initials M.A.F. and the date of 1617 which were upon the old Kirk, refer to the fact that a new Church was built in the time of Mr. Alexander Fraser. He was Minister from 1614, and, sentence of deposition was passed upon him in 1650, for subscribing a Paper against the Covenant, &tc. The Church was " in a very ruinous condition" about 1794 and the present Edifice was erected in 1820. The Belfry was previously upon the Kirk of Keith.

St. .Fumack's Well is in the Manse Garden, a copious Spring where he bathed every morning at all seasons. He is also said to have dressed himself in a green tartan garb, and did Penance by crawling round the bounds of the Parish on hands and knees" imploring God to protect it and its inhabitants from all plague and pestilence.

Some time after the Image of Wood of St. Fumack had been carried in procession, accompanied by singing and bagpipes, the Clergy interfered, when not only was the Image broken to pieces, but some of the Leaders were brought under Church censure as propagators of idolatry.

1574. Andrew Reidfurde, Reader. -

1586, David Henrison. Translated from Ruthven; returned to Ruthven prior to 1601.

1614. Alexander Fraser A.M. King's Cot!. Aberdeen, in 1604. Got a new Church built in 1617. He was deposed 26 June, 1650, for subscribing a paper to George, Marquis of Huntly, against the Covenant and Ordinances of the General Assembly, 1638. Made his repentance at Botriphnie, 16 .Feb., 1651 , " for these enormities for quhich he was deposed."

1654. William Burnett, A.M., a native of Aberdeen, graduated at King's Coll., 8 July, 1649,-licensed by the Presbytery 23 March, 1653,cal!ed unanimously same year, and admitted 30 Aug 1654, Translated to Cullen, by the Bishop, in 1663. Died in March 1681 aged 52. Sir Jas. Strachan, Keith, preached his Funeral Sermon from Dan. xii. 3.

1664. William Speed, A.M King's Coll., Aberdeen, 1656. Ordained at Elgin, 24 Aug., 1664 Translated to Ednam in 1682. Deprived by Privy Council, 3 Sep., 1679. He resided subsequently at Nether Byres, Ayton where he Died before 23 April, 1706

1682. George Chalmers. Presented by Alexander, Master of Salton, in April, and Admitted and Instituted 1 June, 1682. He survived the Revolution, also most of his Contemporaries, and Died 24 Feb., 1727, aged 73 .He had two sons, Alexander, minister of Glass, and James at Miln of Kinnear.

1728 George Campbell, A.M. Son of George Campbell, minister of Alvah. Elected Schoolmaster of Marnoch, 24 Nov., 1717, which he left in May 1719. Had his Degree from the Univ. of Edinburgh, 1721. Was Licensed by the Presbytery of Aberdeen, 7 Nov,-1722. Presented by William Duff of Braco in July, 1727, and Ordained 17 Sept., 1728. Died 10 April 1773, aged 76. He bequeathed £625 to the Society for Propagating Christian Knowledge.

1774. Alexander Angus, A.M. Translated from Tullynessie. Presented by James, Earl of Fife, in Oct. 1773, and Admitted 29 June after. Got a new Church built in 1820. Died 11 April, 1829, aged 85. Married 16 Sept. 1777 Catherine Mair, who Died 28 May, 1836, and had two Sons and five daughters, of whom John George Angus, M.D., is in Calcutta. .

1829. William Masson, A.M.,. son of George Masson. Born at Auchlee, Banchory-Devenick, 17 Sep., 1800. Was educated at the Parish School of Durris, Grammar School, and Marischal College: Had his Degree from Marischal coll., Aberdeen, 30 March, 1821. Licensed by the Presbytery of Aberdeen, 24 June, 1825. Ordained by them 7 Nov 1827 as Assistant to Rev. Dr. Ogilvie, Old Machar. Presented to this Parish by James, Earl of Fife, 28 May, and Admitted 26 Sep., 1829. Married 31 Dec., 1830, and had issue. The celebration of his 60th Anniversary in the Parish took place with great eclat.

1829. Alex. Mackay, A.M. Born at Fochabers. Educated at Milne's Institution there, and University, Aberdeen.

EPITAPHS IN THE CHURCHYARD.

" A visitor to the Churchyard of Botriphnie cannot fail to be struck with the exceptionally repulsive condition of that retired and naturally lovely spot. It is damp, dank, and dismal, and a visit is attended with actual danger to the health. It is not the absence of ornamentation and of rectangular or other gravelled walks that I complain of. I would care little for embellishments done in the style of a Dutch cabbage garden. But the place is cumbered with several large forest trees: ash, I believe sadly out of place, and is so closely surrounded by lofty-spreading trees, ripe for the wood-cutter, that the sun never shines on a large portion where the Burying-ground chiefly lies. The consequences are that the Graves, where there is vegetation at all, are overgrown with noxious weeds and plants that avoid the sun; and that, except in the warmest summer weather, a very perceptible chill is felt all over the body which in the case of delicate persons, and even of others, would be likely enough to leave with the visitor effects that might be serious, !n the name of the sacred memories associated with the Spot, let those cumbrous trees be removed and a circle cleared round the outside, so as to admit the rays of the sun and the air of heaven. Then Nature, without the help of man would hasten to cover with a carpet of soft green the eyesores that now disfigure the sacred Spot; as she so richly does there where she is not obstructed, and it would be possible for the living to visit the last resting place of their dead without being shocked, or without the risk of injuring their health or of shortening the span of their own existence. (Banffshire Journal, 0ct.21,1879.)

A Marble Slab in the north wall of the Church, erected by surviving members of the family (those deceased being named), bears these Notices of a late Minister and his Wife :

I. Sacred to the memory of the Rev. ALEXANDER ANGUS, minister of this parish, and his affectionate spouse KATHARINE MA!R. He died 11 th April, 1829, in his 85th year, and 67th of his useful ministry. She died 26th Oct., 1836, in her 86 th year.

One of their sons, Dr. GEORGE ANGUS, of the H.E.I.C.'s medical service, died at Aberdeen in 1872, in his 78th year. He attained to the highest honours in his profession abroad, where he was greatly esteemed and on returning home , he endeared himself to all with whom he came in contact, not more by his warm friendship and unbounded benevolence, than by his humane and unostentatious actions. The South Aisle, in which Mr. Angus and his family were buried, and some remains of the Church of Mr. Fraser's time, still stand in the Burial Ground.

In the Aisle is a marble Slab, with a carving of the Chalmers' arms and motto, "SPERO" also this Inscription :-

II. Here lies the body of George Chalmers who was minister of Botriphnie for 46 years and 7 months. He dyed the 24th of Feb. 1727,aged 72 years and 8 months.

Mr. Chalmers, who was Mr Campbell's predecessor and the last Episcopal Minister of the Parish, although he did not conform to Presbytery, was allowed to enjoy the Living, without interruption down to the time of his death.

Upon an adjoining Monument :-

III. In memory of HELEN CHALMERS, daughter of the Rev. George Chalmers minister of Botriphny, and spouse to Alexander Stewart, Esquire of Lesmurdie, who died in the year year 1758 aged 72. And of JAMES STEWART 5th and youngest son of the said Alex. Stewart and Helen Chalmers, who died 30th March 1807 aged 83 years.

A Slab, within the same aisle presents carvings of the GORDON and LESLIE Arms. It bears STAND SURE, also the initials, I.A., A.G., K.L, and the date or 1671.

An adjoining slab overtopped with the ANDERSON and GORDON Arms, is thus inscribed:-

IV. Memoriae sacrum. Hie subtus siti sunt GORDON et KATHARINAE LESLIE, loannis et lacobi Anderson orum ab Ardbrake conjugum dilectarum, una cum liberis ex utraque susceptis, quaram haec, annos nata XXXiX 7 Id. Mart - MDCLXVU, fatis succubuit, iUa vero annorum matrona, XIII Kal. Decembr. A.D. MDCLX.X, lumina clausit ; in quarum decus et perennern farnam, quippe quae fuerint Claris editae natalibus, eximiisque exeultae virtutibus, pro surnmo in demortuas affectu et observantia monumentnm hoc superstruendum curarunt loannes et lacobus Andersoni, pater etfillius

In translation, this reads as

[Here beneath lie the ashes of ANN GORDON and KATHARINE LESLIE, the beloved wives of John and James Anderson of Ardbrake, together with those of children of each ; the latter succumbed to fate, 9th March 1667, aged 39, and the former closed her eyes, 19th Nov 1670, when a matron of ..... years, to whose honour and lasting reputation, for they were of distinguished birth, and adorned with eminent virtues, John and James Anderson, father and son, in testimony of their deep affection, and regard for the deceased, caused this monument to be erected over them]

From a Slab built into the outer and south wall of the Aisle:-

V. 1760 : This monument is erected by John Stewart in Rosarie, in memory of his grandfather WILLIAM, and his father THOMAS, who both lived and died at Bodinfinnich, and of his uncle Hendry, who sometime lived and died in Rosarie. JOHN, WILLIAM, ALEXANDER, GEORGE, HENDRY , MARY, and BEATRIX, Hendry's children, also lie here.

It is to be observed that this has been the burial place of the said Stuarts long before, and ever since the Reformation. The Stuarts of Rosarie are now represented by Stuart, farmer, Popeen, Boharm.

A Monument, within an Enclosure and upon the Site of the Drummuir Burial Place, bears :-

VI. Near this spot tie interred the remains of Major ALEXANDER DUFF, younger of Cubin, who died at Davidston, in the year 1777. Also of his son Admiral ARCHIBALD DUFF of Drummuir who departed this life at Braemorriston, near Elgin, the 9th day of Feb. 1858, aged 84. FRANCIS JOHNS, widow of Admiral Archibald Duff of Drummuir, who died at Braemorriston, 21st Dec., 1861, aged 74.

Upon another Stone are the Initials and Date, A. D : A A., 1671. The Duffs of Drummuir deduce descent from Duff of Clunybeg, who died in 1674; and the Gordons of Park (to which property the late Col. Duff succeeded on the death of his grandmother in 1808), claim to be descended from the Gordons of Cairnborrow, a branch of the Huntly family.

The next three Inscriptions are from Tombstones relating to Blacksmiths, and all present Carvings of "the Hammer and the Royal Crown," the well-known Insignia of the Craft :-

VII Under the hope of a blessed resurrection, here lyes JAMES BURGES, smith in Ardbrodin, and GRASEL GILBERT, his spouse. He dyed May 6, and she the 7, 1678, and were buried both together in on grave.

MARGARET BURGES dyed 4 March, 1682 ;

Here are two who down did lay,
Their lump of flesh and clog of clay,
Who willingly here did ly doun
In hope to ryse and Wear a crown.

Ardbrodin is now part Home-Farm of Drummuir.

VIII. Here lyes THOMAS SELLAR, smith, who dyed the last of March, 1667.

W. S. dyd the 7 of Decembr, 1693.
JOHN S, dyed Deer. 9 1695.
ALEX. SELLAR, son to James departed Novr. 18 1703 aged, .......
JAMES SELLAR, son to Thomas departed Decer. 6, 1703, aged......... aged 34, buried 31 July 1711. T. S. died June ye 1, 1738. Momento Mori

T     [CROWN     S
I     AND             S
A     HAMMER] Gor

[Upon the reverse of the same stone]

This is thought to have been the first Gravestone in this Churchyard, marking the burial ground of the Sellars, a race of Blacksmiths for 400 years, as may be seen from the other side. Under it lies the body of Robert Sellar, blacksmith in Tenantown, who died in January 1815, in the 57th year of his age, being the lineal descendant of the above race. 

Also his spouse, ISABELLA HAY, who died on the 26th May 1851, aged 80. Their second son, Robert, died in Massachusetts America and their fifth son Francis, died bathing at Aberdeen, August 1828, aged 19. His bones lie here.
400 years is possibly a mistake, at least as so far is now visible, the Inscription fails to bear out the statement. The family is now represented by the we!! known Blacksmiths and Farm Implement makers of the same surname at Huntly.

IX Robert MacPhail, 36 years blacksmith in Nova Scotia, died at Cachenhead, 8th March 1835, A 78

My sledge and hammer lie declined
My bellows, too, have lost their wind,
My fires extinct, my forge decayed,
My shovel in the dust is laid
My coal is spent, my iron gone;
My nails are drove, my work is done
My fire dried corpse lies here at rest
My soul, like smoke, soars to be blest.

The above Lines are said to be upon the Tombstone of a Blacksmith, at St. Albans, Hertford, dated 1757. The same Epitaph but not of so early a date as 1757, is to be found in several Grounds in Scotland.

The fragment of a lettered Stone preserved at Drummuir Castle, and formerly upon the old Parish School, presents these remains of an Inscription :~

. . . . on . Ard . w . bvilt .
.......n..... n . his . own ....
     1676.

X. A flat Slab, with the initials G. C., marks the site of the Pulpit . as well as the Grave of the Rev. Mr. GEORGE CAMPBELL.

About 40 years ago, a Cross of rude picked stone, in low relief and about 5 and a half feet high by about 3 foot broad, stood within the Kirkyard of Botriphnie. Unfortunately about the time indicated the stone was broken up by a Blacksmith who used it as a hearth for his Smiddy. This had probably been the ancient Cross of St Fumack's Fair of Botriphnie.

There is a smll upright stone in the Churchyard, upon which a Bow and arrow are rudely inscribed. It is said to mark the Grave of a native William Tell, who, it is averred, pierced an apple placed upon the head of his own son, at a distance of a mile.

Here also in the NE comer, under the shadow of the dyke lie the ashes of a poor Female, who committed suicide by hanging herself with a hasp of yarn. Although this event occurred within 40 years, the Parishioners were averse to her body being Buried within the precincts of the Churchyard, and the unlucky hasp of yam was burned upon the spot! Her Grave is still haunted and when the Yard is pastured by sheep, it is popularly believed that they shrink from eating the grass which grows upon the grave of the poor crazed Tibbie Innes ! The Hasp belonged to my father, who supplied the poor creature with spinning.